Sunday, November 16, 2003

The Washington Post reports today:

Canberra, Flip Side to Washington
By Roger K. Lewis
Saturday, November 15, 2003; Page F05

Canberra, the capital of Australia, and Washington, the capital of the United States, have several things in common. Both occupy federal districts near the coasts of their respective continents. Both were planned from scratch on farmland in locations determined by political compromise between existing cities. Both new capitals were designed by men living in America who were relieved of their planning jobs soon after their plans were conceived. And during the start-up decades, when both capitals were inhabited primarily by civil servants, few citizens wanted to live there.
But there commonalities end.
Washington, established two centuries ago, has evolved into a relatively urbane, moderately dense, demographically diverse metropolis where government, while still the dominant activity, shares its territory with other industries. Canberra, a century younger, is still a one-company town. Among the American capital's most notable physical characteristics are its monumental Mall and many tree-filled urban parks, parks typically framed or surrounded by buildings.
Canberra is not a city containing parks, but rather one giant park encompassing widely dispersed bits of a city.
Visualize a verdant, very gently rolling landscape with a long, man-made lake winding through its center. Superimpose on this landscape an elaborate network of circular and radial roads based on polar and axial geometries.
Then scatter throughout this vast park assorted buildings, most short and spaced so far apart that they disappear behind the trees. Finally, surround the city's government and commercial heart with dozens of low-density enclaves of single-family houses served by unfathomable tangles of discontinuous, dead-end or looping streets. That's Canberra. Most of the city's architecture is inoffensively bland, with a few notable exceptions. One is the recently opened, geometrically playful, multicolored National Museum of Australia, perched on a peninsula projecting far into the lake. Another is the world-famous Parliament House on Canberra's Capital Hill, completed about 15 years ago, the result of a design competition won by the Philadelphia-based architectural firm of Mitchell/Giurgola & Thorp.
Unlike the U.S. Capitol, clearly sitting symbolically on top of and dominating its hill, Canberra's modern Parliament nestles into its hill. It's barely visible from many vantages. But like the U.S. Capitol relative to the Mall and Lincoln Memorial, the Parliament building anchors one end of Canberra's most symbolic and monumental visual axis. This two-mile-long north-south axis crosses the lake's east-west axis and is anchored at its other end by the austere, vaguely neoclassical Australian War Memorial with its intimate, beautifully proportioned courtyard.
Despite the grand scale of its plan, Canberra gives new meaning to the term "suburban." It makes Reston and Columbia look almost citified. Australians routinely joke about quiet, pastoral, lifeless, out-of-the-way Canberra and wonder why either Australians or foreign tourists ever bother going there.
Yet for American planners and architects, Canberra has always been a subject of great interest, one of the world's premier examples of a planned new city shaped by a designer. Among others are Pierre L'Enfant's Washington, as well as Oscar Niemeyer's Brasilia and Le Corbusier's Chandigarh, capital of the Indian state of Punjab.
Walter Burley Griffin, a young Chicago-born architect and landscape architect who had worked for Frank Lloyd Wright, designed Canberra. Assisted by his talented wife, Marion Mahony, he won an international design competition in 1912 after competing with more than 130 designers, including Eero Saarinen's father, Eliel, who was runner-up.
Griffin dreamed of an ideal city and clearly was inspired by urban design theories of the age, the "Garden City" and "City Beautiful" movements prevailing during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Envisioning a utopian, anti-industrial environment dominated by parks and gardens rather than smokestacks and tightly packed rowhouses, Griffin responded to and exploited the site's existing topography, a broad river valley flanked by hills. He imposed on this landscape a complex yet systematic geometry of broad avenues, boulevards, streets and traffic circles while designating general land-use zones and sites for significant public edifices. The original plan anticipated a population of 75,000. Several hundred thousand now live in greater Canberra, although the city's overall density has
changed little.
Griffin's original plan was never fully carried out, but many of its essential elements were realized. And today you can readily see similarities between Griffin's 1912 Canberra plan and L'Enfant's 1793 Washington plan.
You can also see the limitations and pitfalls of two-dimensional urban plans when they are finally implemented in three dimensions.
Washington enjoys a healthy balance between building mass and open space, between solid and void. It might have been otherwise if public policy and regulations governing land use, density, building heights and setbacks had been different. Many of the blocks shown in the L'Enfant plan, intended for subdivision and sale, could have been occupied by parks instead of buildings. Many of Washington's parks could have succumbed to development pressures and been covered with buildings.
Likewise, Griffin's plan could have been built out differently, especially given the amount of infrastructure the plan provides. As I walked and biked around the city's many roads, I kept thinking how retrofitting Canberra by filling appropriate portions of its 10,000 acres of parkland, without any changes to its street pattern, could be a challenging urban design thesis.
The pattern of Griffin's plan on the landscape is complex and difficult to navigate, but the layout itself is not the main problem. Canberra's status as the sleepiest burg on the planet is attributable in part to naively utopian land-use policies embraced many decades ago. Today it needs less parkland and more buildings, more density and more people.
Fortunately for Australia, still a very young and growing country, it may not be too late to draw inspiration once again from Washington and revisit Canberra's out-of-date land-use policies.

Roger K. Lewis is a practicing architect and a professor of architecture at the University of Maryland.



Hell, I should have written this, with appropriate invective added. I could note that in fact a neutron bomb dropped sometime in the 70s, and no-one noticed (except me, and a few others), so that today when one walks those gum-tree-lined streets, one sees virtually no human beings moving at all, until one happens on a street of minimal activity, all taking place at the same odd, somewhat zombified pace. The traffic all moves with phenomenal uniformity and speed, thanks to astonishingly wide streets and traffic-law enforcement that makes cruise control essential to avoid tickets for going, say, 42kph in a 40kph zone. The city has not "several hundred thousand" people, but only 350, only half of whom, at last count, work for the government, so it's not exactly a one-company town any more. He fails to note it's (and Australia's) use of this kind of design to further its relatively egalitarian ethos - everyone gets a house with 3 gum trees and the local government, at least until recently, threw in 35 or so free shrubs from government nurseries, to help along the arboreticization of the city. The bird and animal life is impressive, but that only adds to the sense that one is strolling through some odd sort of hallucination or dream, one that for youths growing up there, or trying to, is closer to a nightmare. The buses cruise out the valleys to the distant suburbs with virtually no-one on them, which increases this sense. I wasn't sure if he was praising or rubbishing the new Parliament House, but he might have noted that it has a huge pyramidal flagpole that stands like a daddy-longlegs over the whole complex, and brings to mind a megalomaniacal project drawn up personally by the dictator of a central African republic. It is remarkably "livable," which is why I'm not there, but in its defense, one would have to say that it has successfully accomplished many of the goals that middle America sets for itself but fails miserably to achieve, such as provision of well-landscaped and attractive schools and playgrounds, and sidewalks, and village centers. It has never, ever, had an abandoned gas station, which suggests that socialist planning (because that is what really shaped Canberra, with avenues that brought a tear to the eye and a curl to the lip of an East German friend of mine who visited) is not all evil.

Thursday, November 13, 2003

To: Amanda Vanstone, Australian Minister for Immigration

Minister Vanstone:
So, now the truth is out – and it's just as any alert Australian would have suspected: In the matter of the Turkish refugees, your government lied, as it has before, on refugee issues, and in the most pathetic manner. Is what you did illegal under international law, or just contrary to the basic humane values that international law tries to impose on renegade governments such as Australia's present mob of ratbags? Have you and your colleagues any shame at all?
With appropriate disgust and disappointment,


http://www.abc.net.au/news/newsitems/s988766.htm
The Turkish Kurds are now being held in Jakarta. (Reuters)
Howard shrugs off refugee U-turn
By London correspondent Fran Kelly
Prime Minister John Howard says whether the Turkish Kurds who landed on Melville Island last week applied for asylum is irrelevant.
The Government has been accused of deceiving the Australian people after revealing the men did seek protection as refugees.
"At the time any so-called application for asylum might have been made, the islands had been excised," Mr Howard said.
The Government corrected the record late yesterday after it had categorically ruled out that any of the 14 Turkish Kurds aboard the boat had claimed asylum.
It now says the words 'human rights' and 'refugee' were mentioned by some and at least one man pointed to the word refugee in a dictionary.
Mr Howard also says the Indonesian Government knew of Australia's decision to tow a fishing boat carrying 14 Turkish Kurds back into Indonesian waters.
Opposition leader Simon Crean says the Government concealed the truth for a week-and-a-half.


Monday, November 10, 2003

To: Amanda Vanstone, Australian Minister for Foreign Affairs (www.vanstone.com.au)
November 10, 2003

Ms. Vanstone:
Your begrudging stand on the latest attempted landing by refugees, on this occasion a group of Turkish Kurds, truly is embarrassing and lamentable. Your claims to providing fair treatment to all people wishing to enter Australia are plainly bogus. You unfavorably compare apparent, or possible, refugees from Turkey's well-documented brutalization of Kurds, with people who have the ability to apply for admission in an orderly, safe fashion. The comparison is disingenuous and disgusting. How dare you! In addition, your belligerence towards the ABC and reporters in general - towards the public - is simply ignorant and boorish. I anticipate, in any case, that your far-from-plain dealing with the Australian public (me among them) will soon end in your disgraced departure from Parliament. Surely you can barely tolerate contemplating your own grotesque inhumanity. In the meantime, unfortunately, you put the country at risk of losing more and more of its reputation for common decency. Please resign before this occurs.
Sadly, and with appropriate disdain,

Saturday, November 01, 2003

Yesterday afternoon Bob, Cyndi, and I went to see Fiji lose in the last moments to a boring Scotland team, which now advances to the quarterfinals, while the exciting Fiji side goes home. The game was fine, and the whole scene was something quite different from the American model, in subtle ways. A Scottish bagpipe band was playing outside the stadium when we arrived. Many men in kilts paraded by. It was a sunny afternoon and we had a good time, after driving up from Canberra, mostly on the highway, but through the countryside at times, so Cyndi could keep an eye out for birds and other wildlife.
After the game we drove on to Manly, a beach suburb of Sydney, across the harbour from the city, named for characteristics of the local indigenous people, according to the British colonists' way of seeing them. It's an ultimate spot for middleclass hedonists, modeled in some ways on the English, Brighton model, but with a much loser feel to it, thanks to the Australian attribute of presumption of being a fortunate people, given to sun and, judging by the style of the crowds milling about on the beach, wharf area, and esplanades, easily given to the pleasures of the flesh, much of which is constantly on view.
We walked over a short way to the cricket stadium, where the local city council had set up a huge video screen so the people of Manly, plus international visitors here for the Rugby World Cup, could watch the Ireland vs. Australia game. A sizable crowd was splayed all over the oval and in the stands, cheering the virtual. The mob consisted in good part of drunken rugby fans, tossing back cans of beer on sale there, and then leaving the cans wherever they stood. But another large proportion of the crowd was teenagers - on dates or in bunches. It must just be my age and rearing, but the sight of so many bared and/or tattooed belly buttons, backs, arms, and chests constantly surprises me. I presume it would horrify many of the young ladies' parents, too, if they saw what they went out in. Whatever...
We stopped on the way back, on the Corso, an esplanade through the middle of Manly, to admire the "flying foxes," a variety of fruit bat as large as seagulls, disporting on and about the fig trees, screeching at each other in objection to pilfered fruit, or stolen favorite boughs. They flew just overhead, but no-one other than us, and perhaps two other tourists, paid them any heed, at all. They come into Sydney suburbs each evening in huge flotillas from bushland not far away, moving through the air eerily soundless and light on trees, weighing down the branches almost to the ground.